To start off, Taiwan is not a particularly well-known destination. And that is exactly the reason we ventured out to this little island, which has found itself in very interesting political circumstances. Those who do visit will quickly tell you that the food was a highlight, vividly recalling the stinky tofu at a night market. Taiwan is undoubtedly a great place to try cuisines from all over China, but it packs in a number of surprises - one of them being that the nation is extremely vegetarian-friendly. In fact, Taiwan may just be the easiest nation in the region where vegetarians can not only survive but thrive.
Taiwan offers visitors bustling cities with beautiful temples, a wonderfully scenic coastline with mountains and cliffs, as well as the generous hospitality of its locals. And with a vegetarian-friendly food culture, you can count on meals to look forward to, and great snacks in between.
Overview
Forget anxiously scanning the menu for the one questionable vegetarian item offered by a restaurant. Taiwan is blessed with a plethora of vegetarian restaurants, which may be pure vegetarian or even vegan, while some may offer seafood dishes. While the vicinity of Buddhist temples is a good start searching for vegetarian restaurants, they are everywhere, in big and small cities. Such places encompass traditional places run on Buddhist principles (some may avoid the use of garlic and onion) as well as trendy Western-style vegetarian eateries which would not be out of place in San Francisco or Sydney.
Do not expect to be given a menu in any foreign language everywhere. Even if the menu does have an English translation, do not expect staff to understand English. It is a good idea to bring a sheet of paper which conveys your dietary preferences and allow the staff to suggest suitable options (or look at the useful phrases at the bottom of this article). Expect lots of mock meat which can replicate the most exotic of meat dishes.
There are numerous options for veggie dining in Taiwan. At one end, you have a choice of buffet spreads, some of which are pure vegetarian while some will offer veggie options. You can pick and choose your dishes and your meal will be priced by weight. Some places may even have noodles which will be cooked on the spot for you. They are often no-frills places and may have no to little seating, usually the reserve of takeaways during busy lunch-time. However, there are also many veggie places where you order from the menu as in any other place, and these range from the basic, with classic offerings, to the fancy, which may have unique dishes and set meals. It is always a good idea to reserve a table at these joints, particularly on weekends. Note that many vegetarian restaurants do not serve alcohol.
Taiwan also has a highly sophisticated coffee culture, and cafes can be found everywhere, offering a mind-boggling variety of drinks as well as pastries, snacks, and light meals. Cafes come in all types, from the matchbox rustic corner with two token tables to swish affairs with minimum order requirements. Expect high and variable prices; a cappuccino can range from NTD 60 to NTD 160 in Taipei. Cafes keep widely variable timings; some open early enough for breakfast while most open during lunchtime or later. Some may keep open late at night, during which a limited food menu may be available.
Of course, tea culture is still strong. And let's not forget boba tea, which originated in Taiwan. If you get lucky, you may the spot the odd boba coffee too.
Taiwan is also blessed with quality bakeries, which provide ample options for breakfast, snacks, and desserts. Besides the usual baked items, look out for specialties such as mochi, particularly in Taipei and Hualien. Also look out for other sweet shops, which offer many kinds of cookies, cakes, and buns.
When and Where?
Breakfast: Taiwanese enjoy breakfast from street carts and small shops, which serve sandwiches, soy milk, and buns, among other items. Some of these may offer vegetarian options, and a few are exclusively vegetarian (see below). Timings are variable but many will serve you from 7:00 or even earlier, until 11:00 or 12:00. Some of these places reopen in the afternoon and provide snacks from about 14:00 to 17:00.
Some bakeries will open their doors by 7:00 or 8:00 and they will offer a wide variety of items. Unlike what you may expect, not too many cafes are open early in the morning, but look around as a good few will begin the day around 7:00 or 8:00.
Lunch: Lunch begins early here, and most places open their doors by 11:00 or 11:30 and good places may well be packed by 12:30. If you are eyeing a buffet place, it pays to arrive early, when you may have more options and seating will be available. Most places close by 14:00.
Dinner: Restaurants open by 17:00 or 17:30 and may close anytime between 20:00 and 21:00; few stay open later. For both lunch and dinner, it is a good idea to reserve earlier that day, or for the more popular places, a few days in advance. This is especially so on weekends.
Late night: What makes Taiwan special is its culture of night markets. Some are open everyday, while some may keep specific days of the week. Vendors typically start opening around 17:00 or 18:00 but it takes an hour or so for things to become really happening, and night markets close around midnight.
While night markets do not exclusively cater to vegetarians, indeed, they are a carnivore's dream, you will find a variety of stalls serving desserts, drinks, fruit, and even buns and mushrooms. Even without eating, night markets are definitely worth visiting.
Between meals: Taiwanese are great snackers and you can enjoy a bewildering array of culinary distractions to break up your day of sightseeing. Simply strolling the streets will allow you to discover local favourites, be it carts parked on street corners or beautifully decorated modern joints, and everything in between. Do not judge a book by its cover, as the most-battered looking places often produce the best food, but go by crowds and queues, which are better indicators of a place's popularity. See below for a list of boba places, dessert restaurants, and other stops to recharge your batteries.
What to Eat
Taiwan offers a cornucopia of the various regional Chinese cuisines on offer. As a vegetarian or vegan, tofu and other soya products will play a prominent part in your Taiwanese diet. Be prepared to be impressed by the many creative mock-meat dishes you will come across - vegetarian intestines, anyone?
A local favourite is the Sichuan specialty, mapo tofu (spicy tofu), a delicious dish of smooth and soft tofu. Tofu comes in many other forms, often fried, and served with vegetables, such as aubergine (eggplant), capsicum (peppers), and mushroom.
Standard vegetable dishes include simple greens, which may sound boring but are actually quite tasty, particularly when paired with rice or noodles.
Breakfasts would involve fresh steamed buns. These could be sweet, flavoured with red bean paste or taro paste. They could also be savoury, with a cooked cabbage or other vegetable filling. Look for soya milk and green onion pancakes or buns to round off your breakfast.
Recommendations by City
Despite its small size, Taiwan offers many regional specialties unique to a city or region. I have been to Taipei, Tainan and the Taroko National Park, so this section will provide names of restaurants in those places.
TAIPEI
As the capital and largest city of Taiwan, Taipei offers a wide variety of vegetarian joints; indeed, food can be a highlight of one's visit to Taipei.
Wanhua and Datong
The historic districts of Wanhua and Datong offer fantastic food in between all their temples and other points of interest.
While exploring the area around Longshan Temple, look out for a pastry shop 三水素食餅店 on the eastern boundary of Bangka Park. You can find irresistible bean cakes as well as dozens of other snacks and sweets. There is also a vegetarian restaurant next door.
The bustling streets around Ximending are crammed with eateries of all kinds. Among them, Goldfish is a new and modern spot for boba tea. There is no place to sit to be prepared to walk with your drink.
Ximending to 228 Peace Park
Opposite the Provincial City God Temple, you'll find Astoria Cafe, Taipei's oldest Western-style bakery, a great spot for buns, cakes, and other baked goods. Walk into the alley bursting with food stalls to the heart of Chengzhong Market, where you can pick up some fruit and street food.
Around Taipei Main Station
Tucked away in a small lane is Shijie Vegan, a small, homey restaurant with a picture menu which helps greatly if you do not read Chinese. Most items are vegetarian and the staff is helpful in working with your dietary preferences.
Wenchang Temple to Songshan Airport
The delightful market around Wenchang Temple has many snack and fruit stalls and is worth a wander.
Further to the east, you will find an unassuming-looking street cart, called Bulao Hakka Traditional Mochi, serving fresh mochi (glutinous sweet rice balls with various fillings and covered in crushed peanuts). At times, a fearsome queue snakes around the block, but the mochi is absolutely worth waiting for. A mixed order will get you a box of 6 mochi balls, each with different stuffings, including red bean, black sesame, and custard.
The nearby branch of the Ijysheng Bakery also offers mochi, as well as other bakery products. Foreign tourists get a discount so make sure to ask for it.
Songshan Airport to Taipei Arena
This grid of streets is away from the tourist circuit, offering atmospheric markets, cool cafes, and plenty of bakeries with tantalising window displays.
Spilling out into the streets north of Rongxing Garden is the Rongxing Open-Air Market, where narrow streets redolent crammed with stalls provide fine views of the hills to the north of the city.
Among all these listings, you might be wondering where you can find a decent breakfast. Closer to Taipei Arena is a small shop, 可味包子, which does a roaring business in steamed buns and soya milk. One street to the east is another good breakfast option, this one pure vegetarian. 正饌素食 has among the best red bean buns I have ever had; the cabbage bun is quite good too, and there are other fillings available. There is no place to sit; takeaways are common, or just stand around. The entire area gets busy in the mornings with breakfast joints, with diners slurping huge bowls of noodles on pavement benches.
Taiwan offers visitors bustling cities with beautiful temples, a wonderfully scenic coastline with mountains and cliffs, as well as the generous hospitality of its locals. And with a vegetarian-friendly food culture, you can count on meals to look forward to, and great snacks in between.
Overview
Forget anxiously scanning the menu for the one questionable vegetarian item offered by a restaurant. Taiwan is blessed with a plethora of vegetarian restaurants, which may be pure vegetarian or even vegan, while some may offer seafood dishes. While the vicinity of Buddhist temples is a good start searching for vegetarian restaurants, they are everywhere, in big and small cities. Such places encompass traditional places run on Buddhist principles (some may avoid the use of garlic and onion) as well as trendy Western-style vegetarian eateries which would not be out of place in San Francisco or Sydney.
Do not expect to be given a menu in any foreign language everywhere. Even if the menu does have an English translation, do not expect staff to understand English. It is a good idea to bring a sheet of paper which conveys your dietary preferences and allow the staff to suggest suitable options (or look at the useful phrases at the bottom of this article). Expect lots of mock meat which can replicate the most exotic of meat dishes.
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| Look for the reverse Swastika, which often features on the boards of many vegetarian restaurants |
There are numerous options for veggie dining in Taiwan. At one end, you have a choice of buffet spreads, some of which are pure vegetarian while some will offer veggie options. You can pick and choose your dishes and your meal will be priced by weight. Some places may even have noodles which will be cooked on the spot for you. They are often no-frills places and may have no to little seating, usually the reserve of takeaways during busy lunch-time. However, there are also many veggie places where you order from the menu as in any other place, and these range from the basic, with classic offerings, to the fancy, which may have unique dishes and set meals. It is always a good idea to reserve a table at these joints, particularly on weekends. Note that many vegetarian restaurants do not serve alcohol.
Taiwan also has a highly sophisticated coffee culture, and cafes can be found everywhere, offering a mind-boggling variety of drinks as well as pastries, snacks, and light meals. Cafes come in all types, from the matchbox rustic corner with two token tables to swish affairs with minimum order requirements. Expect high and variable prices; a cappuccino can range from NTD 60 to NTD 160 in Taipei. Cafes keep widely variable timings; some open early enough for breakfast while most open during lunchtime or later. Some may keep open late at night, during which a limited food menu may be available.
Of course, tea culture is still strong. And let's not forget boba tea, which originated in Taiwan. If you get lucky, you may the spot the odd boba coffee too.
 |
| Coffee time. Expect larger, and weaker, drinks |
Taiwan is also blessed with quality bakeries, which provide ample options for breakfast, snacks, and desserts. Besides the usual baked items, look out for specialties such as mochi, particularly in Taipei and Hualien. Also look out for other sweet shops, which offer many kinds of cookies, cakes, and buns.
When and Where?
Breakfast: Taiwanese enjoy breakfast from street carts and small shops, which serve sandwiches, soy milk, and buns, among other items. Some of these may offer vegetarian options, and a few are exclusively vegetarian (see below). Timings are variable but many will serve you from 7:00 or even earlier, until 11:00 or 12:00. Some of these places reopen in the afternoon and provide snacks from about 14:00 to 17:00.
Some bakeries will open their doors by 7:00 or 8:00 and they will offer a wide variety of items. Unlike what you may expect, not too many cafes are open early in the morning, but look around as a good few will begin the day around 7:00 or 8:00.
Lunch: Lunch begins early here, and most places open their doors by 11:00 or 11:30 and good places may well be packed by 12:30. If you are eyeing a buffet place, it pays to arrive early, when you may have more options and seating will be available. Most places close by 14:00.
Dinner: Restaurants open by 17:00 or 17:30 and may close anytime between 20:00 and 21:00; few stay open later. For both lunch and dinner, it is a good idea to reserve earlier that day, or for the more popular places, a few days in advance. This is especially so on weekends.
Late night: What makes Taiwan special is its culture of night markets. Some are open everyday, while some may keep specific days of the week. Vendors typically start opening around 17:00 or 18:00 but it takes an hour or so for things to become really happening, and night markets close around midnight.
 |
| A drinks stall at the Raohe Street Night Market, Taipei |
Between meals: Taiwanese are great snackers and you can enjoy a bewildering array of culinary distractions to break up your day of sightseeing. Simply strolling the streets will allow you to discover local favourites, be it carts parked on street corners or beautifully decorated modern joints, and everything in between. Do not judge a book by its cover, as the most-battered looking places often produce the best food, but go by crowds and queues, which are better indicators of a place's popularity. See below for a list of boba places, dessert restaurants, and other stops to recharge your batteries.
What to Eat
Taiwan offers a cornucopia of the various regional Chinese cuisines on offer. As a vegetarian or vegan, tofu and other soya products will play a prominent part in your Taiwanese diet. Be prepared to be impressed by the many creative mock-meat dishes you will come across - vegetarian intestines, anyone?
A local favourite is the Sichuan specialty, mapo tofu (spicy tofu), a delicious dish of smooth and soft tofu. Tofu comes in many other forms, often fried, and served with vegetables, such as aubergine (eggplant), capsicum (peppers), and mushroom.
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| Mapo tofu - yum! |
Fried rice is another common delicacy. Very enjoyable just by itself, it can nonetheless be consumed alongside a vegetable or tofu dish. Fried noodles are also popular, and come with different vegetables. Simpler noodle dishes may be cooked and served just by themselves, often in sesame oil, and are very delicious. Spice levels are generally very moderate and much lower than in China, often to the point of blandness. However, if you are concerned, you can always request low spice levels while placing your order.
Tofu also features in desserts, which are often simple, consisting of cold soft tofu in a sweet syrup. Other desserts feature beans in a cold syrup, by themselves or in combination with fruits or bean pastes. Sweetness levels are much lower than in many other parts of the world, such as the U.S. or India.
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| A bean-based dessert with jelly and mung bean paste |
Recommendations by City
Despite its small size, Taiwan offers many regional specialties unique to a city or region. I have been to Taipei, Tainan and the Taroko National Park, so this section will provide names of restaurants in those places.
TAIPEI
As the capital and largest city of Taiwan, Taipei offers a wide variety of vegetarian joints; indeed, food can be a highlight of one's visit to Taipei.
Wanhua and Datong
The historic districts of Wanhua and Datong offer fantastic food in between all their temples and other points of interest.
While exploring the area around Longshan Temple, look out for a pastry shop 三水素食餅店 on the eastern boundary of Bangka Park. You can find irresistible bean cakes as well as dozens of other snacks and sweets. There is also a vegetarian restaurant next door.
The bustling streets around Ximending are crammed with eateries of all kinds. Among them, Goldfish is a new and modern spot for boba tea. There is no place to sit to be prepared to walk with your drink.
Ximending to 228 Peace Park
Opposite the Provincial City God Temple, you'll find Astoria Cafe, Taipei's oldest Western-style bakery, a great spot for buns, cakes, and other baked goods. Walk into the alley bursting with food stalls to the heart of Chengzhong Market, where you can pick up some fruit and street food.
Around Taipei Main Station
Tucked away in a small lane is Shijie Vegan, a small, homey restaurant with a picture menu which helps greatly if you do not read Chinese. Most items are vegetarian and the staff is helpful in working with your dietary preferences.
Wenchang Temple to Songshan Airport
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| Market around Wenchang Temple |
Further to the east, you will find an unassuming-looking street cart, called Bulao Hakka Traditional Mochi, serving fresh mochi (glutinous sweet rice balls with various fillings and covered in crushed peanuts). At times, a fearsome queue snakes around the block, but the mochi is absolutely worth waiting for. A mixed order will get you a box of 6 mochi balls, each with different stuffings, including red bean, black sesame, and custard.
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| The queue at the mochi stall - a sure sign of quality! |
The nearby branch of the Ijysheng Bakery also offers mochi, as well as other bakery products. Foreign tourists get a discount so make sure to ask for it.
Songshan Airport to Taipei Arena
This grid of streets is away from the tourist circuit, offering atmospheric markets, cool cafes, and plenty of bakeries with tantalising window displays.
Spilling out into the streets north of Rongxing Garden is the Rongxing Open-Air Market, where narrow streets redolent crammed with stalls provide fine views of the hills to the north of the city.
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| Rongxing Open-Air Market |
A new kid on the block, 祥和蔬食料理(慶城店) is a popular vegetarian restaurant (reservations recommended) whose menu offers some more innovative options. It was so good that we went twice during our trip! Look out for the red-brick building and the few steps leading to the door. Your after-meal boba will be taken care of by Baroness, which has a branch nearby, and unlike in many other teashops, a small seating area is available.
Near the Taipei Arena station is SYJ Vegetarian, which claims to be among the oldest vegetarian restaurants in the city, and offers all the usual classic vegetarian dishes.
Taipei Arena to Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall
Part of the Da'an District, the streets immediately to the west of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall are packed-to-bursting with shops and restaurants, rivalled only by Ximending in terms of the level of activity.
Among the trendy offerings of Korean BBQ and New York-style bagels, you will find Flourish, an upbeat vegetarian restaurant which gets seriously packed (so make sure to reserve!). Dishes inventively mix in Japanese and Korean touches, making the unique menu a good change from the more traditional food you will experience while in Taiwan. To satisfy your sweet tooth, you will find many dessert shops in the area, including Dessert stomach, which offers Hong-Kong style desserts.
Xinyi - Taipei 101 and Around
A business (and high-end residential) district, some places may be closed during weekends.
One exception is the Bao Auspicious Vegetarian Restaurant, whose set meals (upwards of NTD 500 per person) are worth a splurge. Meals include tofu in many forms, along with soup, salad, and rice. It is a good idea to reserve, particularly on weekends.
TAINAN
Even within a food-obsessed country as Taiwan, Tainan is widely reputed as a foodie city. Also Taiwan's oldest city, the history, culture, and food pack in quite a punch, making Tainan one of the most rewarding city destinations in the country. This will be obviously as soon as you step foot in town, with all the stalls, tiny restaurants, and hawkers everywhere.
Heart of town - Chikhan Tower and Around
The historic heart of the town has loads of great options. You might want to extend your stay here just to sample all the great stuff available!
Starting close to the Chikhan Tower is the Chi Kan West House Restaurant, a hotel restaurant in a historic building down a small, easy-to-miss lane. The menu blends local and international options; just note the portion size, which could be highly variable among the various dishes.
Nearby is Childhood Mung Bean Soup, a modern dessert place for mung bean-based soupy desserts presented artistically. The menu is in Chinese so do a lot of pointing - at the menu or at whatever others are having. Or just choose anything off the menu and be prepared to be surprised. Similar soups, but of the red bean kind, can be had in a more rustic, nearby place called 石家正阿美綠豆湯where you can gain more experience with more pointing.
In a small lane nearby is an age-old bakery, 舊來發餅舖, in operation for over a hundred years. Traditional products include cookies of many sorts, mochi, other confectionery involving sesame, and so on. The place has clearly gotten a whiff of the tourist dollar but the products are of good quality and the bakery is a Tainan institution.
The streets in and around Chikhan Tower are absolutely packed to the gills with enticing food options, particularly to the west of Chikhan Tower. Xinmei Street is home to rather hip cafes and pubs, should you crave something different.
In the opposite direction, look out for Qing Qi Vegetarian Dim Sum, next to a historic temple. Heaven for dim sum lovers, simply pick any dumpling or bun which looks good and plop it into a plate (to eat in) or a box (takeaway). Repeat as many times as you like. Everything is freshly cooked, and turnover is high. This makes for a fun meal any time of the day, including breakfast (as it opens at 5:00!). For a sweet treat, don't miss the fried sesame balls with red bean paste - so good that we had to get an extra half dozen to take away.
The streets around National Tainan University are packed with hip eateries and cafes, with all the usual student favourites. Among these places is an outpost of the international vegan chain, Loving Hut. While I am never fond of chains, this exception proves the rules, as Loving Hut features local menus of high-quality dishes. Here in Tainan, you can enjoy delicious hot pot, rice bowls, and noodle soups.
Xinyi - Taipei 101 and Around
A business (and high-end residential) district, some places may be closed during weekends.
One exception is the Bao Auspicious Vegetarian Restaurant, whose set meals (upwards of NTD 500 per person) are worth a splurge. Meals include tofu in many forms, along with soup, salad, and rice. It is a good idea to reserve, particularly on weekends.
TAINAN
Even within a food-obsessed country as Taiwan, Tainan is widely reputed as a foodie city. Also Taiwan's oldest city, the history, culture, and food pack in quite a punch, making Tainan one of the most rewarding city destinations in the country. This will be obviously as soon as you step foot in town, with all the stalls, tiny restaurants, and hawkers everywhere.
Heart of town - Chikhan Tower and Around
The historic heart of the town has loads of great options. You might want to extend your stay here just to sample all the great stuff available!
Starting close to the Chikhan Tower is the Chi Kan West House Restaurant, a hotel restaurant in a historic building down a small, easy-to-miss lane. The menu blends local and international options; just note the portion size, which could be highly variable among the various dishes.
Nearby is Childhood Mung Bean Soup, a modern dessert place for mung bean-based soupy desserts presented artistically. The menu is in Chinese so do a lot of pointing - at the menu or at whatever others are having. Or just choose anything off the menu and be prepared to be surprised. Similar soups, but of the red bean kind, can be had in a more rustic, nearby place called 石家正阿美綠豆湯where you can gain more experience with more pointing.
In a small lane nearby is an age-old bakery, 舊來發餅舖, in operation for over a hundred years. Traditional products include cookies of many sorts, mochi, other confectionery involving sesame, and so on. The place has clearly gotten a whiff of the tourist dollar but the products are of good quality and the bakery is a Tainan institution.
The streets in and around Chikhan Tower are absolutely packed to the gills with enticing food options, particularly to the west of Chikhan Tower. Xinmei Street is home to rather hip cafes and pubs, should you crave something different.
In the opposite direction, look out for Qing Qi Vegetarian Dim Sum, next to a historic temple. Heaven for dim sum lovers, simply pick any dumpling or bun which looks good and plop it into a plate (to eat in) or a box (takeaway). Repeat as many times as you like. Everything is freshly cooked, and turnover is high. This makes for a fun meal any time of the day, including breakfast (as it opens at 5:00!). For a sweet treat, don't miss the fried sesame balls with red bean paste - so good that we had to get an extra half dozen to take away.
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| Time to go crazy with dim sum |
Anping and Around
The site of many historic forts, Anping, by the harbour, is the other of Tainan's key areas. While strolling around Anping's historic streets, keep your eyes peeled for Anping Lucky Boat. The dining rooms of this vegetarian and seafood restaurant is crammed with photos and notes from previous diners. There is also a terrace where you can enjoy sitting outdoors. Many good rice and noodle dishes.
The surrounding streets are full of shops selling cookies and other traditional Chinese baked goods but for a sit-down dessert experience, go to 瓦地加芋圓 for a decent variety of bean and tofu-based desserts. There are pictures of some of the main desserts on the wall, handy to get around the lack of a non-Chinese menu.
TAROKO AND AROUND
It is the Eastern Coast of Taiwan which led to the moniker of 'Ilha Formosa' and it is easy to see why. With high, lush mountains whose summits seem lost in the clouds, craggy cliffs, and a beautiful ocean, this scenic stretch comprising the Taroko National Park is a highlight for anyone. However, the food scene outside the city of Hualien is not particularly exciting.
This region is particularly famous for sweet potato, which can be found in any convenience store (7-Eleven, Family Mart etc). Another local specialty is mochi, which is available packed in a number of sweet shops in Hualien's central areas.
IN TRANSIT
Train travel is popular in Taiwan and stations would have at least basic options but it may be a good idea to bring your own provisions.
Taipei main station has a mall attached with a large food court. Other main stations have at the minimum a 7-Eleven where you can get packed snacks and coffee. Some would have stalls selling snacks and fruit. Even in trains, a trolley rolls by periodically selling some snacks.
Useful Words
Don't know Chinese? Don't worry! Just keep these phrases handy to show any restaurant staff, courtesy of Google Translate.
素 (Sù) - vegetarian
沒有肉 (Méiyǒu ròu) - no meat
沒魚 (Méi yú) - no fish
沒有海鮮 (Méiyǒu hǎixiān) - no seafood
沒蛋 (Méi dàn) - no egg
When crafting your own phrasebook, note that Taiwan uses the traditional (as opposed to simplified) Chinese characters.
The site of many historic forts, Anping, by the harbour, is the other of Tainan's key areas. While strolling around Anping's historic streets, keep your eyes peeled for Anping Lucky Boat. The dining rooms of this vegetarian and seafood restaurant is crammed with photos and notes from previous diners. There is also a terrace where you can enjoy sitting outdoors. Many good rice and noodle dishes.
The surrounding streets are full of shops selling cookies and other traditional Chinese baked goods but for a sit-down dessert experience, go to 瓦地加芋圓 for a decent variety of bean and tofu-based desserts. There are pictures of some of the main desserts on the wall, handy to get around the lack of a non-Chinese menu.
TAROKO AND AROUND
It is the Eastern Coast of Taiwan which led to the moniker of 'Ilha Formosa' and it is easy to see why. With high, lush mountains whose summits seem lost in the clouds, craggy cliffs, and a beautiful ocean, this scenic stretch comprising the Taroko National Park is a highlight for anyone. However, the food scene outside the city of Hualien is not particularly exciting.
This region is particularly famous for sweet potato, which can be found in any convenience store (7-Eleven, Family Mart etc). Another local specialty is mochi, which is available packed in a number of sweet shops in Hualien's central areas.
IN TRANSIT
Train travel is popular in Taiwan and stations would have at least basic options but it may be a good idea to bring your own provisions.
Taipei main station has a mall attached with a large food court. Other main stations have at the minimum a 7-Eleven where you can get packed snacks and coffee. Some would have stalls selling snacks and fruit. Even in trains, a trolley rolls by periodically selling some snacks.
Useful Words
Don't know Chinese? Don't worry! Just keep these phrases handy to show any restaurant staff, courtesy of Google Translate.
素 (Sù) - vegetarian
沒有肉 (Méiyǒu ròu) - no meat
沒魚 (Méi yú) - no fish
沒有海鮮 (Méiyǒu hǎixiān) - no seafood
沒蛋 (Méi dàn) - no egg
When crafting your own phrasebook, note that Taiwan uses the traditional (as opposed to simplified) Chinese characters.
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