Worldwide, Italian restaurants are reliable last resorts for vegetarians when all else fails. Vegetarian pastas and pizzas abound which make for a satisfactory meal. But the reality in the homeland is far more enticing. Here, "Italian" cuisine is as meaningless as 'Indian' cuisine in India or 'Chinese' cuisine in China. The regional diversity in Italy means that every region has something unique to offer and Rome, as well as the surrounding region of Lazio, is no different. Food here is a passion. Local and seasonal ingredients bursting with flavour are highly respected and proudly served in creative ways. Towns just minutes away in a rattling local bus may have their own local specialties which you will be eagerly advised to try. Here, good food, vegetarian or otherwise, is not just easy to find and enjoy but a big part of why you came. Buon appetito.
Overview
While pure vegetarian restaurants serving local cuisine may be thin on the ground (or non-existent), there is no reason to worry. Most restaurants will have at least one vegetarian option on the menu. This will not be a 'compromise' vegetarian dish as many Roman dishes are naturally vegetarian and will be just as exciting as any other offering on the menu.
Italian food in general - and this certainly applies to Roman cuisine - appeals with its simplicity and quality of ingredients. If a dish sounds simple and 'boring', well, it is not going to be because the ingredients are going to blow your mind. Did you ever think that a plate of plain beans can be delicious? Well, now you do.
Just as you should not judge a dish by its title, don't judge a restaurant by the way it looks. Simple, casual places may not necessarily look too elegant but they may well provide fabulous food. As anywhere, popularity with locals is a reliable indicator of quality. When you finally pick a place, note that unlike Italian restaurants the world over, bread is usually charged for per person and may arrive once you finish your first course. You can always refuse the bread if you like. There is usually a service charge by person - this is often clubbed along the bread on a bill, and if you refuse the bread, you will only be charged the service charge. Tipping is not expected.
A typical menu begins with antipasto (starter), followed by primo (first course), secondo (second course), contorno (side dishes), and dolce (dessert) along with coffee. Note that even if a restaurant serves dessert, it may not always be on the menu. You can order as few or many courses as you like. First course dishes usually include many vegetarian options (pasta, rice, soup) and contorni are usually vegetable side dishes so are always vegetarian. Menus are typically small because quality over quantity and all that.
 |
| A typical menu. Short and sweet, because less truly is more. |
 |
| In Rome, a bar is never far away |
In some of the smaller places (and even in Rome), a good gelateria may be part of a bar. Bars are institutions; not only do you go there for a drink, but they are standard coffee stops any time of the day, including breakfast. In smaller towns and even smaller cities, many bars may close from about 13:00 to 15:00 or 16:00. For snacks in between meals, bakeries and pastry shops are your best bets. They offer different breads, biscuits, pizza, crostata (jam tarts) and many other sweets and savouries. Many bakeries are small and low-key and may not be initially obvious; look for the words panificio, forno, or pasticceria.
 |
| Your friendly neighbourhood pastry shop at your service |
The usual stereotypes attached to food in Italy - of long and leisurely multi-course meals - do not apply to breakfast. In fact, given Italy's culinary reputation, breakfast may be a disappointment when you see that the spread in your B&B consists of mass-produced, boxed croissants. And while your breakfast may not be as memorable as your lunch or dinner, the situation is not so grim. You just need to put in some effort.
A standard breakfast in a bar consists of a coffee and a pastry. The coffee is likely to be amazing, the pasty not so. Many bars will serve you pre-packed mass-produced pastries, probably the same as the ones in your B&B; indeed, go early in the morning and watch them nonchalantly take these pastries out from their box and place them in the display counter. If you order a pastry here, it will be treated to a dusting of sugar to create perceptions of freshness and quality.
A much better idea: go to a bar, enjoy the coffee, refuse the pastry, and look for a pastry shop or bakery. Italians enjoy a dazzling variety of pastries, the most widespread of which is likely the cornetto, which is similar to a French croissant, only not buttery. Typical styles include plain, or filled with chocolate or jam, and you may be able to find some interesting variations such as multigrain or fruit. Another popular kind of pastry is a ciambella (doughnut), and there are many, many more. Do them justice by going to a pastry shop, where you can also enjoy coffee too.
Italy's culinary culture truly shines during the main mealtimes. Lunch is the main meal; afternoons may seem dead in smaller towns when many shops shut down as people head home for lunch. Churches are also usually closed, and even some museums may be closed (this does not apply to Rome where you only need to watch out for churches being closed). The best thing to do during the afternoon? Enjoy a leisurely lunch. In conducive weather, it is a joy to sit outside in a large square or narrow lane while watching the world go by.
 |
| Enjoying an outdoor lunch in Sutri |
Approaching an Italian menu is easy, given the fact that the cuisine is somewhat familiar despite differences in dishes. Begin your meal with antipasti, which include the classic brschetta, likely topped with tomatoes. Many starters are sharing platters also incorporating cold cuts, making it oddly hard to always find a vegetarian option. If this happens, don't worry, as you can have substantial meals without a starter as well. You might get lucky and even find a caprese salad here (or in the salad section), which consists of mozzarella with tomatoes and basil.
The first course (primo, plural primi), is where vegetarians thrive. You will find pastas, rice/risotto, and soup dishes here. Many of these may be completely new to you, even if you claim some knowledge of Italian cuisine, due to the importance of regional cuisines and the use of local ingredients.
A classic which you will find almost everywhere is cacio e pepe, literally cheese and pepper. A pasta dish usually served with spaghetti or other noodle such as tonnarelli, this dish is more than enough proof that simplicity results in divine food. The pasta is cooked with pecorino cheese and pepper - and that's it. And that's good, because that's just how we love it. Those with a preference for soups may wants to try acquacotta, originally a peasant soup popular in Viterbo. Other pastas and so on appear in often unique combinations, taking full advantage of local produce. For example, Caprarola is famous for its mint, hazelnuts, and ricotta. Meanwhile, fennel grows in the entire area and makes appearances in many a local menu.
 |
| Pasta with ricotta and hazelnuts - proudly showcasing Caprarola's delights |
Contorni (side dishes) are delightful enhancements to a meal, and very useful for vegetarians. Popular favourites include chicory and mixed salads. You can also find beans and potatoes too. A dish of grilled vegetables typically includes zucchini and aubergine. Vegetables are generally seasoned with olive oil which in itself is very tasty. Some restaurants may feature a separate salad section while others include their salads under contorni.
Across the Tiber from Trastevere, Testaccio is a residential district with among Rome's most beautiful ruins and churches, as well as a section of the Aurelian Walls. And as it happens, there is plenty of good food here.
Get your market fix at Mercato Testaccio, where you can pick up some lovely produce at good prices; don't come too early as it takes a while for the market to get going. Testaccio also has some cool bakeries for breakfast or snacks; try Linari or Pasticceria Barberini. The Piramide metro station is convenient for Testaccio.
Esquilino and Around
So close but so far. Just a stone's throw from the Forum, the flow of tourists slows to a trickle in the area around Re di Roma. A bustling residential area full of rather tall buildings (by Roman standards; no skyscrapers here, thankfully), there are a number of restaurants here worth checking out.
Trattoria Re di Roma, a local favourite, is located handily near the Re di Roma metro station. Unlike at many other places, the menu here is long and there are many interesting pasta, salad, and side dishes to try (and of course, meat dishes including Roman specialties such as oxtail and tripe). The tiramisu is an excellent end to your meal. Another great spot is Trattoria Etruria, where the chalkboard menu lists typical Roman classics; the cacio e pepe is on point.
For something modern and different, head to Sbanco. This buzzing pizzeria-microbrewery is hugely popular with groups of youngsters. Try the ravioli filled with chocolate for dessert. It's probably a good idea to reserve.
When you know that it's a good idea to stay clear of a gelateria with luridly-coloured ice cream screaming for your attention, you know that ice cream is going to be good when you can't even see it. That's the modus operandi at Il Gelato di San Crispino, a chain where the ice cream is covered with steel lids so as to maintain it at the right temperature. Another good spot for ice cream is Freddo; they also serve coffee and so open early but you might get strange looks by your fellow coffee-drinkers if you walk off with a scoop of ice cream in the morning hours!
Also, being the lively residential area it is, you'll find many small fruit-and-veggie shops which sell nothing but produce. They will be in small stores spilling out into the streets; a far cry from the sterile produce in sanitized supermarkets that dominates the shopping scene in some countries.
VITERBO
The city where cardinals were famously locked inside the Papal Palace when the election of the Pope was taking too long in the 13th century, Viterbo was an important stop on the Via Francigena, an important pilgrimage route for travellers from as far as Canterbury. Today, Viterbo is a convenient base for visiting Northern Lazio while being a beautiful destination in its own right, with an excellent dining scene. A local ingredient to look out for in dishes is fennel, which adds a surprising touch to pasta sauces.
Trattoria L'Archetto, a simple restaurant, has been delighting diners with its local cuisine and pretty location since 1940. Nearby, Taverna Etrusca offers dishes such as pasta in tomato and fennel sauce in a large dining room. For a pizza fix, you can do much worse than La Sosta del Suffragio, which provides large, mouthwatering pizzas at superb value (a margherita at just 5 euros?!). The pizza base is super thin and crispy and the environment is quite fun.
While bars abound, head to Pasticceria Cassantini for a pastry in the morning (or anytime of the day). Their bakery selection also includes the local biscuits, tozzetti, and a number of other tempting creations (the pistachio-and-chocolate millefeuille is drool-worthy). Nearby, Baldini will solve your pizza al taglio cravings.
It's gelato time, but you may have a decent wait at L'Antica Latteria, right by Porta della Verita in Viterbo's city walls. Be patient, though, because the ice cream is fabulous. Pick a number and wait for your turn. Don't be like me and fight your way to the counter (in my defense, I had no clue that there was a queue!).
CAPRAROLA
Caprarola's main street and its surrounding lanes and alleys will spoil you for choice. To truly experience how much respect is given to local ingredients, try Hostaria della Rosa Trattoria, down a narrow lane just off the main street. You will be treated to local, seasonal ingredients in often unusual forms - how about a bruschetta with hazelnuts and mint? Great desserts too, including tozzetti.
BAGNOREGIO
While most visitors walk straight by Bagnoregio to visit the hilltop Civita di Bagnoregio, the main town itself is worth an extended wander and even a meal.
Pick up snacks when you arrive at the bakery at the main roundabout when you enter the town - this is where the bus drops you off, if you are relying on public transportation. If your bus is full of schoolchildren, just follow them as they thrust themselves in the bakery as soon as they get off. For a meal, try Il Fumatore, handily located on the main street.
TUSCANIA
The lovely town of Tuscania, with an almost isolated location inside a national park, merits a visit as much for its Etruscan history and many churches, some with Etruscan and Roman sarcophagi as for its quiet, gorgeous centre away from the hordes. There seem to be an almost improbable number of restaurants dotting the town given its size. In particular, look at the area around Torre di Lavello Park for options, many with outdoor seating and views across the countryside.
For a rustic, homey experience, try Da Alfreda. Run by an old woman, this place has no menu; she will seat you and tell you what's available. Very good value for money and very popular with locals. The place does not offer any dessert, so satisfy your ice cream cravings at Il Gelato di Torre Alfina Sarchioni, just outside the old town at Piazzale Trieste.
TARQUINIA
This is the place to come to see for yourself the truly magnificent painted Etruscan tombs. Dating from as early as the 7th century BC, these tombs shed light on the quite mysterious Etruscan civilisation. Standing in the tomb alone, face-to-face with art which makes Roman marvels seem modern is a surreal experience and anyone's highlight to Italy.
Besides, Tarquinia is situated in a particularly beautiful part of Northern Lazio; you can enjoy great views of the countyside. Tarquinia is also on the coast and so seafood features prominently on restaurant menus; this can make finding vegetarian food a little more complicated but it's still out there.
Located in a beautiful square, Chicche e Pepe has rather odd timings; it's open only for lunch most days. However, the food is good and there are seasonal specials in addition to the usual menu items. Farina e Tempesta is a good pizza spot. For breakfast, try Belle Helene, where you will be treated to a wide range of cornetti you may not find elsewhere, such as a multigrain cornetto.
Useful Words and Phrases
Non mangio carne e pesce - I do not eat meat and fish
Desserts include the popular tiramisu, which is outrageously good. Other traditional desserts include crostata (jam tart) and chocolate cake. A local specialty is biscuits called tozzetti, found in many pastry shops and some restaurants. Pizzerias may not serve too many desserts, but if they do, tiramisu is very likely to be on there. Otherwise, a good gelateria is never far away.
 |
| Pizza al taglio |
If dining in pizzerias, Roman-style pizzas are thin with an often crispy and slightly charred crust. Margherita is a classic and there are numerous variations. Starters here often include arancine, fried risotto balls with a tomato paste and cheese. If getting pizza by weight, you can find numerous vegetarian versions. You may run into a plain potato pizza too, which may even be appropriate for vegans. Note that many sit-down pizzerias are open only during dinner time.
If you have an opportunity to visit a market, you will be in for a treat. Local markets are a riot of colour. Expect great local produce which can also be surprisingly good-value.
Recommendations by City
ROME
Be it outdoor dining surrounded by centuries-old monuments, an intimate osteria in a quiet residential neighbourhood, or self-catering and picnicking in a park, Rome will spoil you for choice. Just keep in mind that Central Rome is full of tourist-oriented eateries which are best avoided; seek local recommendations and even consider heading out of the tourist centre to not only visit new areas but also to eat.
Below are of course just a few of many possible options. Unless you have a place in mind you really want to try, just check out menus as you walk around.
Centro Storico and Prati
Here's a tip: that place next to the tourist sight with menus in 5 languages and waiters hawking for diners is probably not your best bet for good, authentic food. There are many great dining options in the historical centre but there are also a number of tourist traps.
If you're in the mood for pizza, Pizzeria La Montecarlo is a reliable bet, very easy to locate just off the main drag, Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II. A very busy place, it's been going strong for over 30 years and while quite touristy, the quality is actually good. There is outdoor seating.
It may be a chain, but Alice Pizza is a good, rather stylish, spot for pizza al taglio in the centre. With one branch just off Largo di Torre Argentina, this is very convenient if sightseeing around Ancient Rome, particularly as there are fewer decent options here. There are other branches around town.
For a quick, casual bite, try Fresco on picturesque Via dei Coronari. Sandwiches on warm bread bursting with fresh ingredients such as cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and arugula can be accompanied by offerings from the antipasti bar. You can also pick up fresh cheeses if you're so inclined.
Time for ice cream! Look for Fatamorgana, a renowned chain of natural ice cream with classic as well as quite inventive flavours. Giolitti is a particularly popular (and crowded) place, and so is Venchi, which specializes in chocolate (but also has ice cream), where crowds can be out the door.
Rome's historic centre has several bakeries worth checking out. One of Rome's most celebrated is Antico Forno Roscioli, established almost 200 years ago. Expect to find an array of breads, pastries, pies, and of course, pizza, which is heaven.
Nearby, just off the lively Campo dei Fiori, is the Forno Campo de' Fiori, which occupied two small storefronts opposite each other. The pizza bianca sandwiches are particularly good. Take your goodies to the square to enjoy.
Crossing the Tiber in the area around Vatican City, you will find still more tourist traps in the immediate vicinity of the major attractions, however, the area of Prati, in and around the Corta di Cassazione offers some options. Here, you will find the gelateria mini-chain Neve di Latte, which has a good sitting area. The bustling streets in and around the Lepanto and Ottaviano metro stations seem far removed from the tourist traffic of Vatican City.
Trastevere to Monteverde
The very bustling neighbourhood of Trastevere is very popular with tourists and locals; check out places in some of the side streets for something more authentic.
You can escape the hordes by going just a bit beyond to the area around Villa Doria Pamphilli park, where the quiet residential district of Gianicolense beckons. For something different, head to Lumie di Sicilia, a Sicilian restaurant, where you can try caponata (a cooked eggplant salad-like dish) and ravioli with a hint of orange. Further south, in Monteverde, you will find a cluster of neighbourhood eateries including L'Osteria di Monteverde, which has a rather innovative menu and is noteworthy for offering vegetarian dishes beyond just pastas. Try the zucchini flower stuffed with ricotta and end with the divine tiramisu. Reservations recommended; they may even accept calls on WhatsApp if you do not have a working phone. Check their website for details. Tram 8 makes reaching these areas straightforward.
Recommendations by City
ROME
Be it outdoor dining surrounded by centuries-old monuments, an intimate osteria in a quiet residential neighbourhood, or self-catering and picnicking in a park, Rome will spoil you for choice. Just keep in mind that Central Rome is full of tourist-oriented eateries which are best avoided; seek local recommendations and even consider heading out of the tourist centre to not only visit new areas but also to eat.
Below are of course just a few of many possible options. Unless you have a place in mind you really want to try, just check out menus as you walk around.
Centro Storico and Prati
 |
| Piazza Navona. A beautiful square, just maybe not the place to eat |
If you're in the mood for pizza, Pizzeria La Montecarlo is a reliable bet, very easy to locate just off the main drag, Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II. A very busy place, it's been going strong for over 30 years and while quite touristy, the quality is actually good. There is outdoor seating.
It may be a chain, but Alice Pizza is a good, rather stylish, spot for pizza al taglio in the centre. With one branch just off Largo di Torre Argentina, this is very convenient if sightseeing around Ancient Rome, particularly as there are fewer decent options here. There are other branches around town.
For a quick, casual bite, try Fresco on picturesque Via dei Coronari. Sandwiches on warm bread bursting with fresh ingredients such as cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and arugula can be accompanied by offerings from the antipasti bar. You can also pick up fresh cheeses if you're so inclined.
 |
| Fresco's Storefront |
Rome's historic centre has several bakeries worth checking out. One of Rome's most celebrated is Antico Forno Roscioli, established almost 200 years ago. Expect to find an array of breads, pastries, pies, and of course, pizza, which is heaven.
 |
| Antico Forno Roscioli |
Crossing the Tiber in the area around Vatican City, you will find still more tourist traps in the immediate vicinity of the major attractions, however, the area of Prati, in and around the Corta di Cassazione offers some options. Here, you will find the gelateria mini-chain Neve di Latte, which has a good sitting area. The bustling streets in and around the Lepanto and Ottaviano metro stations seem far removed from the tourist traffic of Vatican City.
Trastevere to Monteverde
The very bustling neighbourhood of Trastevere is very popular with tourists and locals; check out places in some of the side streets for something more authentic.
 |
| The streets of Trastevere |
You can escape the hordes by going just a bit beyond to the area around Villa Doria Pamphilli park, where the quiet residential district of Gianicolense beckons. For something different, head to Lumie di Sicilia, a Sicilian restaurant, where you can try caponata (a cooked eggplant salad-like dish) and ravioli with a hint of orange. Further south, in Monteverde, you will find a cluster of neighbourhood eateries including L'Osteria di Monteverde, which has a rather innovative menu and is noteworthy for offering vegetarian dishes beyond just pastas. Try the zucchini flower stuffed with ricotta and end with the divine tiramisu. Reservations recommended; they may even accept calls on WhatsApp if you do not have a working phone. Check their website for details. Tram 8 makes reaching these areas straightforward.
Testaccio
 |
| Pyramid of Gaius Cestius, Testaccio |
Get your market fix at Mercato Testaccio, where you can pick up some lovely produce at good prices; don't come too early as it takes a while for the market to get going. Testaccio also has some cool bakeries for breakfast or snacks; try Linari or Pasticceria Barberini. The Piramide metro station is convenient for Testaccio.
Esquilino and Around
So close but so far. Just a stone's throw from the Forum, the flow of tourists slows to a trickle in the area around Re di Roma. A bustling residential area full of rather tall buildings (by Roman standards; no skyscrapers here, thankfully), there are a number of restaurants here worth checking out.
Trattoria Re di Roma, a local favourite, is located handily near the Re di Roma metro station. Unlike at many other places, the menu here is long and there are many interesting pasta, salad, and side dishes to try (and of course, meat dishes including Roman specialties such as oxtail and tripe). The tiramisu is an excellent end to your meal. Another great spot is Trattoria Etruria, where the chalkboard menu lists typical Roman classics; the cacio e pepe is on point.
For something modern and different, head to Sbanco. This buzzing pizzeria-microbrewery is hugely popular with groups of youngsters. Try the ravioli filled with chocolate for dessert. It's probably a good idea to reserve.
When you know that it's a good idea to stay clear of a gelateria with luridly-coloured ice cream screaming for your attention, you know that ice cream is going to be good when you can't even see it. That's the modus operandi at Il Gelato di San Crispino, a chain where the ice cream is covered with steel lids so as to maintain it at the right temperature. Another good spot for ice cream is Freddo; they also serve coffee and so open early but you might get strange looks by your fellow coffee-drinkers if you walk off with a scoop of ice cream in the morning hours!
Also, being the lively residential area it is, you'll find many small fruit-and-veggie shops which sell nothing but produce. They will be in small stores spilling out into the streets; a far cry from the sterile produce in sanitized supermarkets that dominates the shopping scene in some countries.
 |
| Shopping for fruit on the streetside |
VITERBO
The city where cardinals were famously locked inside the Papal Palace when the election of the Pope was taking too long in the 13th century, Viterbo was an important stop on the Via Francigena, an important pilgrimage route for travellers from as far as Canterbury. Today, Viterbo is a convenient base for visiting Northern Lazio while being a beautiful destination in its own right, with an excellent dining scene. A local ingredient to look out for in dishes is fennel, which adds a surprising touch to pasta sauces.
 |
| Viterbo |
While bars abound, head to Pasticceria Cassantini for a pastry in the morning (or anytime of the day). Their bakery selection also includes the local biscuits, tozzetti, and a number of other tempting creations (the pistachio-and-chocolate millefeuille is drool-worthy). Nearby, Baldini will solve your pizza al taglio cravings.
It's gelato time, but you may have a decent wait at L'Antica Latteria, right by Porta della Verita in Viterbo's city walls. Be patient, though, because the ice cream is fabulous. Pick a number and wait for your turn. Don't be like me and fight your way to the counter (in my defense, I had no clue that there was a queue!).
CAPRAROLA
 |
| Villa Farnese, Caprarola |
BAGNOREGIO
 |
| Civita di Bagnoregio |
 |
| Mushrooms for sale in Bagnoregio |
TUSCANIA
 |
| Tuscania |
 |
| Torre di Lavello, Tuscania |
TARQUINIA
 |
| Tomb paintings |
 |
| Countryside around Tarquinia |
Located in a beautiful square, Chicche e Pepe has rather odd timings; it's open only for lunch most days. However, the food is good and there are seasonal specials in addition to the usual menu items. Farina e Tempesta is a good pizza spot. For breakfast, try Belle Helene, where you will be treated to a wide range of cornetti you may not find elsewhere, such as a multigrain cornetto.
Useful Words and Phrases
Non mangio carne e pesce - I do not eat meat and fish
Comments
Post a Comment